60. Kanchanaburi War Cemetery

DON RAK CEMETERY

About
This cemetery, the largest of three on the Burma-Siam railway, is located near the site of the former "Kanburi" Prisoner of War Base Camp through which most prisoners passed on their way to other camps. The cemetery, designed by Colin St Clair Oakes, was created after the war by the Army Graves Service who transferred graves into it from camp burial grounds and solitary sites all along the southern half of the railway and from other sites in Thailand.

More than 5,000 Australian and British and 1,800 Dutch casualties are commemorated in the cemetery, including some 300 men who died of sickness at Nieke and Changaraya and who were cremated. Their ashes are buried in two graves in the cemetery and their names appear on panels in the shelter building. The names of eleven soldiers of the Indian army whose graves elsewhere in Thailand could not be maintained are commemorated by name on a tablet in the entrance building.

Poignant and Emotive
As I got out of the tuk-tuk, I saw a plain building entrance with three arches and beyond was a sea of green. There are many plaques on the entrance walls, each filled with words that stir the heart strings. It was a sobering moment as I stood there, reading quietly. All these soldiers, these men, died in a foreign land while serving their country so we could be free.

As I passed through the entrance, I beheld green - green as far as the eye could see with small grave markers in neat rows. Row upon row upon row. The beautiful manicured lawn is kept like a jewel from the water of many sprinklers; the graves are lovingly tended by the Thai people. Here, the weeds do not grow, the flowers on each grave are proudly looking to the sun as the men whose graves they are on were denied in their camps. Here too, is a peacefulness that is visible, a place of serene calm and an aura of acceptance.

An old timber cart sits under a tall, shady tree to the right, the water sprinkles in a gentle arch and one hears the hiss, hiss, hiss as it falls, people walk respectfully among the rows of graves, local people in wide-brimmed hats to protect from the fierce sun kneel and remove weeds, and all around, all I can see are the graves. So many graves. As I look ahead, I see the huge Memorial Cross, standing like a beacon of light. I am drawn to this Cross, it is as if an invisible hand is steering me to it, and as I walk slowly, oh so slowly, the tears come. My tears fall for what this place is and what it represents. And I cried - I cried for the thousands and thousands of men who died - men who would never see their children grow, would never hear the sound of birds singing, men who gave the greatest gift a man can give - their life.

I cried for the waste of so many human lives what was it for? What is war ever for and about? Here in this quiet place, take time to reflect on the tragedy of war, for the suffering and futility which in the end, solves nothing. For there will always be an end and when that end comes we have to ask why?

Above: Entrance
The cemetery is on Saeng Chuto Road, opposite the Railway Station, about 1 km from Kanchanaburi city. The cemetery is maintained by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission.

Above: Lest We Forget

Above: Commemorating the Indian forces

Above: Gift of the Thai people

Above: Inscription in three languages

The inscription reads in English, Thai and Dutch:
"After entering the Second World War in December 1941, the Japanese forces quickly overran most of South East Asia. In 1942, in order to find a shorter and more secure line of supply between Burma and Siam (now Thailand), the Japanese decided to use prisoners of war and civilian labour to build a single line railway to link existing railheads at Thanbyuzayat in the west and Ban Pong in the east. Two forces, one based in Siam and one in Burma, worked from opposite ends of the line, meeting at Konkuita in October 1943. The project cost the lives of approximately 15,000 prisoners of war and 100,000 civilians as a result of sickness, malnutrition, exhaustion and mistreatment.

This cemetery, the largest of three on the Burma-Siam railway, is located near the site of the former "Kanburi" Prisoner of War Base Camp through which most prisoners passed on their way to other camps. The cemetery, designed by Colin St Clair Oakes, was created after the war by the Army Graves Service who transferred graves into it from camp burial grounds and solitary sites all along the southern half of the railway and from other sites in Thailand.

More than 5,000 Commonwealth and 1,800 Dutch casualties are commemorated in the cemetery, including some 300 men who died of sickness at Nieke and Changaraya and who were cremated. Their ashes are buried in two graves in the cemetery and their names appear on panels in the shelter building. The names of eleven soldiers of the Indian army whose graves elsewhere in Thailand could not be maintained are commemorated by name on a tablet in the entrance building.

The Commonwealth War Graves Commission is responsible for the maintenance of graves and memorials in some 150 countries which commemorate around 1,700,000 members of the Commonwealth forces who died in the two world wars. Those commemorated here and elsewhere include servicemen and women of several different faiths and of none."

Above: Cemetery Register

Above: Worker at the cemetery


+

ROWS AND ROWS OF GRAVES

Above: Maintaining the graves

Above: A time to remember. Requisite in pace

Above: Requisite in pace - Young men who died far too early

Above: One grave - one story. Requisite in pace

Above: Walking toward the Memorial

Above: Memorial Cross

Above: Wreaths around the Cross

Above: Looking back to the entrance

Above: 1942 - 1945
Tribute to Royal Dutch Army and Navy Personnel.

One thing that stands out is the age - so many were so young.
+
The tragedy of war is that it uses man's best to do man's worst

59. JEATH War Museum

The Death War Museum (Wat Tai)

History
This museum was initiated by Phra Dharma Khunaphon, the abbot of Wat Tai, in 1977, as another reminder of appalling effects of wars. The museum replicates the thatched detention hut with cramped bamboo bunks of POW's during the Second World War. It contains not only weapons, tools and utensils of WWII, but also paintings, photos and articles reflecting the lives of these POW's during the construction of the Death Railway.

The museum is on the bank of the River, inside Wat Chai Chumphon temple. The present Chief Abbot, the Venerable Phra Theppanyasuthee, takes responsibility for the upkeep of the museum.

Above: JEATH War Museum
The word "JEATH" stands for the names of the six countries involved - Japan, England, Australia, America, Thailand and Holland. The Japanese were the controllers of the railway project, Thailand was involved as the conquered country and the other four countries were involved as POW's on the actual construction of the 415 km long Death Railway and the bridge over the River Kwae. The word JEATH also replaces the word Death because it sounds too horrific.

Above: Front entrance of the JEATH war museum, Kanchanaburi, Thailand

Above: JEATH Museum Building
The first thing you see is this bamboo hut with a collection of photographs. The hut is very similar to those used as living quarters of the POW's while they were forced by the Japanese army to construct the Death Railway linking Thailand and Burma.

The hut is not an original but has been built as a copy of an original and inside you can see how the prisoners lived.

Above: Section of the museum narrating the construction of the Death Railway
This part recreates the quarters of the POW's

Above: Military exhibit at the JEATH war museum
The sign in front reads, "By the time World War II, the prisoners of war were forced to build a strategic bridge across the River Kwae to Burma by the Imperial Japanese Army, but at the same time the Allied airforce led by the USA were trying to bomb the bridge to stop them. This bomb was dropped to destroy the River Kwae bridge in 1945, but it didn't explode because it had gone down in the river."


Original photos of the POW's
Below are photos I took - there are a number of them and I had considered making a collage of them but due to the nature of the subject, felt to give them the respect they required they needed to be shown individually.

Above: Malnourished POW's

Above: The Latrines

Above: POW's conveying water to the camp and hospital

Above: Washing clothes without soap

Above: Lining up for rations before working - rice with little salt.

Above: Grinding rice
Grinding rice - "pap" - soft, mushy boiled rice.

Above: Sleeping space for each POW is 2.5 feet in width

Above: The POW camp made of bamboo and attap roof
An attap roof is made from tree leaves.


Weapons

Above: Weaponry
Situated about 500 metres from the TAT office in the area of Wat Chai Chumphon. The bamboo hut has been constructed in the form of a POW camp and contains photographic, pictorial and physical memorabilia dating from WWII.

Above: Map of Thai - Burma Railway

Above: Bomb Bell leading to the river

58. Bridge over the River Kwai

TOUR AROUND KANCHANABURI TOWN
Today is my last day in Kanchanaburi and I was feeling very disappointed because I hadn't seen the bridge, museum or cemetery and I thought what a great pity that would be - I mean, how many people go to Kanchanaburi and don't see the famous (or rather infamous) Bridge over the River Kwai? Not many, I'll bet.
Plus, I really did want to see it and not just to tick it off on my itinerary.

I decided to ask if the driver I'd booked to take me to the money changers would be able to take me around the town and after a brief discussion with the lady at the travel agency, it was agreed I would pay 120 baht. I was happy with this, after all, it was going to cost me 50 baht just to change currency and be driven back to the guesthouse and I reckoned 120 baht was a pretty good deal. So - that was that problem settled.

Above: Bridge over the River Kwai
View of the Bridge from the Kanchanaburi side. The curved spans are 1943 originals, the two straight spans replaced ones damaged by US bombs in 1945.

The Bridge
Internationally famous, courtesy of Hollywood films and books, this black iron bridge was brought from Java by the Japanese and assembled by Allied prisoner-of-war labour as part of the Death Railway linking Thailand with Burma. Still in use today, the bridge was the target of frequent Allied bombing raids during World War II and was rebuilt after war ended. The curved spans of the bridge are the original sections. The daily train is still following the historical route from Kanchanaburi to Nam Tok Railway Station.

Above: Close-up of the bridge

Above: Monks
On the Bridge over the River Kwai seen from the Kanchanburi end. All trains call at River Kwai Bridge station, located about 200 metres before the bridge, a few minutes after leaving Kanchanaburi. The Bridge is now surrounded by cafes, restaurants, souvenir stalls etc. You can walk over the bridge, even though it's still used by three trains each way every day.

Above: Tourists
Tourists walking across the Bridge. River Kwai Bridge station is in the far background, just before the bridge.

Above: Inscription
This is inscribed on a wall near the east bank of the Bridge over the River Kwai.

Above: Views from the bridge

57. Dinner, A Ticket And Feet

Well it was the end of the day, my last night in Kanchanaburi and I thought I'd have a "night on the town." First thing was to find somewhere to eat, so I walked around looking at the various eating houses, it was no to this one, or that one isn't quite what I'm looking for. Then I saw it - The Hut.

 

Above: The Hut
This was just the sort of place I was looking for - a pub atmosphere with a beer garden - read outdoor eating area, nice, but not posh. (Apart from the fact that I couldn't afford "posh"), I wanted somewhere where the food was cheap, the company relaxed and the place casual. Where you could sit and linger over a drink and take your time without feeling you had to hurry or buy another drink. Anyway, this place suited me to a tee.

I had (from memory) noodles and vegies with pork and a glass of juice followed by a cup of tea. I must say I did enjoy that tea. I'd chosen a table near the street and I could see people walking past. People watching is a great pastime - it costs nothing and is very entertaining.

 

Above: Travel Agent
I popped in here and inquired about a bus to Bangkok. On the lady's advice, I booked my ticket there and then for the 1.00pm bus. As I needed to exchange some currency, I also booked a tuk-tuk for the following morning. She said come about 9.00am and the cost would be 50 baht.

 

Above: Fish Spa
Walking along the street ogling the shops and businesses, I heard a cackle of giggles and looking to where it was coming from, spotted a couple having a fish spa. I had one in Kuala Lumpur the year before and loved it, so I decided to have one here. It was 99 baht for 30 minutes. The English girl kept on cackling like a ninny with, "Oooh, it tickles!" I resisted the urge to roll my eyes. I mean to say, it tickles a bit at first, but after a couple of minutes the ticklish sensation goes, yet this dolly never stopped.

I wouldn't recommend having a fish spa here - it was nowhere near as good as FootMaster Fish Spa (in KL)- they don't have separate tanks, nor do they offer you Chinese tea and neither do they finish the job with an exfoliation, which should be done. Still, it was a pleasant way to spend half an hour.

I wandered back to The Hut, ordered another tea and wiled away the time before going back to my accommodation - had to pack and clear up. It's amazing just how much mess one can make in a few short days.

56. PLOY Guesthouse

This is where I stayed in Kanchanaburi - PLOY Guesthouse. It is very clean and the staff were very helpful.

Above: My room
I was in Room A 103 - the "A" building is the single storey building with an outdoor shower with private garden. I would sit on the timber seat and have a smoke, in peaceful surroundings.
There was an information sign on the wall near the mirror which I thought rather delightful. It reads -


DO'S & STOP
:DO REMIND The breakfast time is 7:00 - 10:00am After that
we have to apologise that we can't serve because a ton of work to do.
For the bar serves you until 20:30

:Don't Take Bath towel of the room, please take your towel out.
Pool towel is provided 20 BHT per day.

:DO REMEMBER everything in a room have a price DON'T RUIN them.

:DO Check-out before 12:00 or the late is 100 BHT per hour.

:DO fill the drinking water as we provide.

:DON'T smoke in a room.

:DON'T BE HESITATE to ask for something or any question. we appreciate
to serve you but please DO SPEAK EXTRA SLOWLY AND CLEARLY.
As we can speak English just a little bit.

:DO Enjoy kids with our facilities: Lego, Paint, Sand pool for free
of charges except Radio Control Boat is 40 BHT per 10 minutes.

:DO NOTE that most toilets in Thailand mean you will have to squat,
but in PLOY please sit. And DON'T PUT the toilet paper
or sanitary pads in the toilet bowl.

:DO REMOVE FOOTWEAR before getting on the bed.

Above: PLOY gardens
The gardens around the guesthouse. There are quiet spots where you can sit and just chill out. The centre photo shows the pool and the river. The swimming pool...hmm, yes.

Thou Shalt Look Where Thou Put Thy Big Foot!
I decided to take a dip in the pool, not being a swimmer, I gauged the shallow end and went in accordingly. Oh it was so refreshing sitting there, legs floating in the water, water coming up to chest high, arms weightless. Such a cooling place. Finally I decided to get out and have a drink. Now, there was no sign saying, "Caution - Slippery" and as I awkwardly climbed up the ladder and gingerly put my foot down on the ground --- WHOOSH! I slipped, lost my balance and ended up very inelegantly on my rear end. I put my right arm out to break the fall, and landed in a heap. (I'm afraid I wasn't very quiet about it either) - I couldn't move - pain shot up my right arm and my rear end was very sore. Two of the staff (both male) came over (it was so embarrassing - the top of my bathers had slipped down) and as I feverishly tried to pull them up I asked them to pass me my sarong. After several minutes, I slowly, very slowly got up, sat in the cane chair.
Ever been in situations where you wish the floor would open up and swallow you? Well, this was one of those times. That was my first (and last) adventure into a pool. Sigh........

Above: PLOY Guesthouse
Looking down from the entrance to the rooms. Note the thatched roofs

Above: Bedroom
My first experience of Thai beds - the mattresses are not just firm they are hard! And instead of it being on a bed with four legs, it was situated on the floor - the floor where the bed was, was higher then the rest of the floor. Just think of a huge step. Getting on it was fairly easy - it was the getting off that took some doing. I found the best way was to slither down to the end of the bed, dangle my feet over the edge on the right hand side and onto the chair, then put them on the ground! What a sight for sore eyes I must have been.

The little fridge was on the same level as the mattress and the window showed the "garden" outside. To the right of the narrow table and mirror is the bathroom door.

Above: Outdoor garden shower
When you go through the bathroom door, the basin and mirror are to your left, the loo is on the right and the shower faces the garden.
There is another sign, equally quaint and rather humourous which says:

DO'S & STOP
:DON'T FORGET that mosquitoes looking and flying like fighter planes will,
not may, also extend you a warm welcome even during daylight. DO BRING
some anti-mosquito-aircraft necessities along and if don't have them ask us.
Especially please DON'T FORGET to close the door.

:DON'T BE ALARMED if you find pigs trotting by or in front of you,
or big monstrous (perhaps to you) lizards wisping out their forked tongues above
your head, or others.....because this is a REAL NATURF.

:DO CONCERN that the electricity and water is the world's resources,
let's save this energy. Please DO TURN OFF when YOU DON"T NEED IT.

:DO let us know if you back from the National park as always many blood
eater come with you, we could give you a hand to clean stuff.

:DON'T KEEP your valuables in a room. And if you do think
we are decent and honest do keep your valuables in out safe deposit box.

:DO BE ALERT if you take NEW FRIEND in room, please take
care your personal belonging.

:DO hang on the sign "do not disturb" If you don't need us to make up
your room.

:DON'T FORGET to double lock the door by wood club.

Have a nice dream!

Above: Walkway
From my room, I walked this way to get to the restaurant - turn left after the elephants.

Above: Entrance to restaurant
The steps lead to the restaurant - on the right hand side is the bar and the area where the breakfast is cooked.

Above: Breakfast table
The tables are made of a solid piece of beautiful timber, topped with glass. The seating is also made of timber, polished to a sheen with the patina of old wood. This was my table. A free breakfast consisting toast and tea or coffee is included in the room price. The rest is extra. I had scrambled egg, 25 baht, bacon - 30 baht and orange juice 40 baht as well. It was 95 baht well spent.

Above: Antiques and Collectables
There are many beautiful pieces - timber sculptures, antiques and curios. This cabinet holds hookah pipes, lustres and candelabras. Above is an old steamer travelling trunk.

Above: Rooftop Garden
I discovered this delightful rooftop garden setting. Relaxing lounges and pillows, undercover from the blazing sun and tables and chairs - again made from nature - solid timbers and marble tops. The whole is surrounded by shrubbery and trees with a view overlooking the River.

Above: View from restaurant
My favourite view - the River Kwai as seen from my breakfast table.

All in all, I was very happy with my choice of accommodation and would recommend it to anyone visiting Kanchanaburi wanting a quiet, relaxed place where you can chill out and just listen to the birds and the gentle lapping of the river.